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Old 07-28-2017, 12:09 AM   #21
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Thanks for your replies.

Quote:
removing the n/d solenoid valve and giving it a few taps
Quote:
LOCKUP SOLENOID VALVE
Sure. Already a long time ago I`ve removed both n/d and lockup solenoid valve and checked it for continuity, air flow and 12v operation as the service manual says. Both not stuck and working perfectly.
Quote:
check page no 59 and you may find
I`ve seen this too. This was the first step I tried. But the problem is that the oil pressure indicator IS OFF: Turn the key, engine not running - the oil, N and ABS lights are on. Engine started - the oil indicator goes off normally as it should.
Quote:
corrosion is a big possibility
I thought about corrosion too, but the bike is only 8 years old, she is even not adult yet
Anyway, there is used wire harness on eBay for sale, I`m thinking of buying this too.
I wish I could live in a place like Australia, I don`t like cold myself too. But someday it should started to be boring, cause it`s a bit small for me Nowhere to ride. But a lof of nature I`d like to take photos.
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Old 08-09-2017, 10:01 AM   #22
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Today I`ve met the other guy on DN-01, US version. We`ve got both bikes in garage, to stand it face-to-face and replaced ECM, TCM, regulator/rectifier and right handlebar control.
No changes. Still the same error presents on mine and no errors on his.

I`m out of options. Wire harness? Or mech problem, but it could not be, because there was no such error before throttle body removal and cleaning.
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Old 08-09-2017, 10:36 AM   #23
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It remains to clean all electrical connecting pads, this is a disease of Japanese moto and auto industry
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Old 08-10-2017, 05:01 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spamer80 View Post
Today I`ve met the other guy on DN-01, US version. We`ve got both bikes in garage, to stand it face-to-face and replaced ECM, TCM, regulator/rectifier and right handlebar control.
No changes. Still the same error presents on mine and no errors on his.

I`m out of options. Wire harness? Or mech problem, but it could not be, because there was no such error before throttle body removal and cleaning.

Hang in there! I admire your determination to find the root of the your problem! It's developed a life of it's own. (I would hate to think that somehow a second problem may have occurred with all your testing and therefore making your troubleshooting even MORE difficult)
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Last edited by Gizmo; 08-10-2017 at 05:04 AM.
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Old 08-13-2017, 11:03 PM   #25
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My friend came to garage on Saturday and we`ve did some tests which needs two pair of hands. First of all, we checked the solenoids again and then we connected the N/D solenoid valve directly to the battery. And voila, N light goes off, D on display and the bike is MOVING. But still shows the same blinking "-" under D. Surely, it`s not possible to drive like that but the mechanical part is working. So this is definetely something electrical that blocking bike`s "brains" from using N/D solenoid valve.

The interesting thing about N/D solenoid and it`s connector:
when you connect the direct 12v from battery to solenoid, it opens with loud "click" as it should. And the air flows through it as described in Manual. This is like you`ve pressed "D".
BUT.
When you turn the ignition ON there is ALREADY voltage on solenoid. About 12v too. And it is not engaging. Not clicking, no movement at all, before you press "D".

And the final thing: there is STILL the same voltage present even with IGNITION OFF!
And this is not some kind of capacitor, we`ve waited for 10 minutes and it`s still there.
The only way to remove it was to disconnect the battery. And voila, no voltage until you turn the key on again.

So.
1) The problem is definetely electrical. So, I`ve bought the full set (more or less) of wire harness for DN. With relays, fuses etc.
2) The constantly present voltage on solenoid could be the malfunction but diconnect the battery and you will never see it until the key is turned on again.

So if you someday have asked yourself "I`ve left my bike in garage for 2 weeks, WHY the battery seems completely dead?" this could be the answer. Your N/D, lockup solenoid valves and maybe more parts is still drains your battery!
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Old 08-14-2017, 04:35 AM   #26
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Glad you ARE making progress ... keep us posted! (This is one for the books!)
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Old 08-14-2017, 09:08 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spamer80 View Post
My friend came to garage on Saturday and we`ve did some tests which needs two pair of hands. First of all, we checked the solenoids again and then we connected the N/D solenoid valve directly to the battery. And voila, N light goes off, D on display and the bike is MOVING. But still shows the same blinking "-" under D. Surely, it`s not possible to drive like that but the mechanical part is working. So this is definetely something electrical that blocking bike`s "brains" from using N/D solenoid valve.

The interesting thing about N/D solenoid and it`s connector:
when you connect the direct 12v from battery to solenoid, it opens with loud "click" as it should. And the air flows through it as described in Manual. This is like you`ve pressed "D".
BUT.
When you turn the ignition ON there is ALREADY voltage on solenoid. About 12v too. And it is not engaging. Not clicking, no movement at all, before you press "D".

And the final thing: there is STILL the same voltage present even with IGNITION OFF!
And this is not some kind of capacitor, we`ve waited for 10 minutes and it`s still there.
The only way to remove it was to disconnect the battery. And voila, no voltage until you turn the key on again.

So.
1) The problem is definetely electrical. So, I`ve bought the full set (more or less) of wire harness for DN. With relays, fuses etc.
2) The constantly present voltage on solenoid could be the malfunction but diconnect the battery and you will never see it until the key is turned on again.

So if you someday have asked yourself "I`ve left my bike in garage for 2 weeks, WHY the battery seems completely dead?" this could be the answer. Your N/D, lockup solenoid valves and maybe more parts is still drains your battery!

Just a thought: Is it possible that the "problem" is in the ignition switch? That it's staying "ON" or "HOT" even when it's suppose to be "OFF," based on what you have just said.
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Old 08-14-2017, 09:21 AM   #28
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Sure, I think it could be possible, but imo less than other versions.

Last edited by spamer80; 08-14-2017 at 01:26 PM.
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Old 08-14-2017, 09:48 PM   #29
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So, one step ahead! As assumed previously the solenoid valve is guilty. The fact that there is voltage at the solenoid when switching on might indicate the conduit running from battery to the power switch is in direct contact with the cable going to the solenoid, there is a high chance both are tight together somewhere. Might be that you had a short cut between these two cables before spark melting or vice versa, the spark caused the melting of the insolation and put in contact the cables.
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Old 08-15-2017, 12:19 PM   #30
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OK. But in this way how can you describe that after you`ve disconnected the battery, there is NO voltage before the key is turned ON again?
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